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The Billiard Cue Stick

We cannot talk about  billiard balls without mentioning the cue stick, of course! A pool cue stick is  chosen according to the body size of the player and to the discipline and play  mode. This is a personal choice, but it is good to know a few details.

History

Like any other billiard  equipment, billiard cue sticks have undergone some changes. In the 15th  century, it was just a curved wooden stick for pushing the ball on a table. The  cue stick we know today appeared in the 18th century. The cue tip, a piece of  leather glued to the tip of the tail, was invented around 1823, and it  revolutionized the game to create impact with the ball.

Composition

The tail can be  three-quarter (1/4 barrel, 3/4 arrow), half (1/2 barrel, half arrow) or solid.  Here are the various components of a cue stick:

Drums

The heel is a rubber tip  that protects the drum.

The choice of the drum  depends on each level of the grip of the cue stick: the texture and weight are  variable. The wood used for the shaft is often noble (rosewood, ebony...).  Then, it is a matter of taste: the designs of French billiard cue sticks are  generally much more sober than that of pool cue sticks. The quality of the wood  and the inlaid feather appearance differ, as does the price of the tail. One  can have graphite barrels for the game of snooker: they are mostly accompanied  by graphite arrows, forming long queues, which are less likely to deform than  wooden tails.

Arrows

The choice of an arrow is  important because it gives the gesture made during the game. Maple is the best  material and its color is quite clear when it is good. Often used for the  French or American billiard tails, maple provides good flexibility. The arrows  can also be made of ash, a very strong material, used especially for snooker or  English pool tails. The more flexible the arrow, the better will be the  trajectory of the long balls. Conversely, the stiffer the arrow, the more it  helps to refine the trajectory of the ball, but the effects will be more  difficult to achieve. Therefore, flexible arrows are for precision and rigid  ones for effects. It is better for beginners to choose a stiffer arrow because  it makes it easier for them to introduce the balls in the pockets.

Ferrules

Ferrules were originally  made of ivory, but they are currently made of plastic or metal, glued or force  fitted into the boom. However, they can be replaced if necessary.

Cue tips

There are two types of cue  tips: screwed and glued snooker cue tips. The American ones are usually made of dash,  blue leather. Screwed cue tips are recommended because they are more efficient  during the game, but there are also glued tips, which are easier to fix.

Dimensions

The diameter of a billiard  cue stick is equal to the diameter of the cue tip. A larger diameter lets you  play with bigger billiard balls. Here are the standard sizes of cue sticks that  can vary from one game to another:

 

French billiards: 140 cm  with a diameter of 11 to 13 mm. The length can be reduced to a series of games  (free portion or frame), more power being required in contrast to the extended  set of three bands.

Bagatelle: 139 cm with a  diameter of 8 to 9 mm.

Snooker: 144 cm with a  diameter of 8 to 9 mm.

Pool: 147 cm with a diameter  of 10 to 12 mm.

 

Weight

It ranges from 460 to over  600 grams. Heavier cue sticks are less suitable for three band games and series  or artistic billiards. You always have to control the speed of the ball. The  lighter the tail, the less power it has. However, it is advisable for beginners  to opt for a little heavier cue stick (520 g) in order to avoid playing too  hard and to be more precise.

Care and storage

Cleaning the barrel is quite  simple, especially if it is varnished. Just wipe it with a dry cloth or one  slightly moistened with water. The arrow may be cleaned with a damp cloth and  then with a dry cloth. Some products also help cleanse and nourish the wood.

The  cue stick can be stored in a soft case or a hard case, and the cue tip and the  heel, which are less fragile, should be stored at the bottom of the case. You  must isolate the chalk and avoid extreme temperatures (heat sources...).

 

About the Author

Pool and snooker player and enthusiast.

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